Craigmillar Castle

Craigmillar Castle.

Craigmillar, Edinburgh, Scotland.

Craigmillar Castle is a ruined medieval castle in Edinburgh, Scotland. It is three miles (4.8 km) south-east of the city centre, on a low hill to the south of the modern suburb of Craigmillar. The Preston family of Craigmillar, the local feudal barons, began building the castle in the late 14th century and building works continued through the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1660 the castle was sold to Sir John Gilmour, Lord President of the Court of Session, who made further alterations.

The Gilmours left Craigmillar in the 18th century, and the castle fell into ruin. It is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland as a scheduled monument.

Gate into Craigmillar Castle
 

Craigmillar Castle is best known for its association with Mary, Queen of Scots. Following an
illness after the birth of her son, the future James VI, Mary arrived at Craigmillar on 20 November 1566 to convalesce. Before she left on 7 December 1566, a pact known as the "Craigmillar Bond" was made, with or without her knowledge, to dispose of her husband Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley.

Craigmillar is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Scotland. The central tower house, or keep, is surrounded by a 15th-century courtyard wall with "particularly fine" defensive features. Within this are additional ranges, and the whole is enclosed by an outer courtyard wall containing a chapel and a doocot.

The lands of Craigmillar were granted to the monks of Dunfermline Abbey by King David I in the 12th century. The Preston family were first granted land in the area by King David II in 1342 and held 2/3 of the estate. In a further grant of 1374, King Robert II gave the remaining lands of Craigmillar to Sir Simon de Preston, Sheriff of Midlothian. It was Simon's son, Simon Preston, or his grandson, Sir George Preston, who began work on the tower house which now forms the core of the castle. This was in place by 1425, when a charter was sealed at Craigmillar by Sir John Preston.


Outer Court Yard
 













The courtyard wall was probably added by Sir William Preston (d. 1453), who had travelled
in France, and drew on continental inspiration for his new work. He also brought back the arm of Saint Giles, which he presented to the High Kirk of Edinburgh, where the Preston Aisle is named for him.

In the late 1470s, John Stewart, Earl of Mar, brother of King James III was held prisoner at Craigmillar, accused of practising witchcraft against the King. He later died in suspicious circumstances.

Queen Mary stayed at Craigmillar twice, in September 1563 and from 20 November to 7 December 1566. She is traditionally said to have slept in the small former kitchen within the tower house, although it is more likely that she occupied larger accommodation in the relatively new east range.

On her second stay, Mary was still in poor health following a serious illness in October. Several of her noblemen were with her, and suggested to her that her unpopular husband, Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, could be removed, either by divorce or by other means. An agreement, the "Craigmillar Bond", was signed by Mary's Secretary of State William Maitland of Lethington, and several nobles including the earls of Bothwell, Argyll and Huntly.

Mary Queen of Scots bedroom at Craigmillar.
 

The bond does not survive, but set out the conspirator's intent to remove Darnley. Although Mary made it clear that she was unhappy with Darnley, she was not part of the conspiracy, and was probably unaware of the plot to kill her husband. It was initially intended that Darnley would lodge at Craigmillar when he returned to Edinburgh, although he opted to stay at Kirk o' Field in the town, where he was murdered on 10 February 1567.

 In 1572, after Queen Mary's flight into England, the Regent Mar used Craigmillar as a base during his siege of Edinburgh Castle, which was being held by supporters of the exiled Queen. King James VI later visited Craigmillar himself, when he was the guest of Sir David Preston. James had been at Seton Palace expecting the arrival of Anne of Denmark, and came to Craigmillar in October 1589 waiting for news of his bride, "as a kind lover spends the time in sighing".

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Yew Trees in Craigmillar Castle.

Mary, Queen of Scots twice resided here, once in September 1563 and again between 20 November and 7 December 1566. The latter stay followed an illness shortly after she had given birth to her son, the future James VI. While at Craigmillar, Mary would have partaken in a number of hobbies such as archery, horse-riding and hunting.

Encased within the imposing walls of the castle’s main courtyard, guests are greeted by a pair of yew trees of unknown vintage. Scholars say the trees, which are recognised symbols of everlasting life due to their innate longevity, were planted during Mary’s residency, in her honour.

Given the right conditions, Yew trees can thrive for millennia, so it is entirely possible that the Mary Stuart link is accurate. Yew trees, according to experts, are notoriously hard to date, though some say the trees bear evidence of stripping, where their wood was used to produce bows and arrows many hundreds of years ago.